The shoulder line of a suit or jacket is one of the most defining elements of its appearance and fit. A subtle difference in construction can make a jacket look structured and formal or relaxed and natural. That’s why choosing a shoulder style is essential for anyone investing in a bespoke suit.
In bespoke tailoring, everything revolves around the balance between comfort, style, and the desired look. The way a shoulder is constructed influences not only the appearance of a suit but also how it feels and how it accentuates the wearer’s body shape. In this article, we discuss three commonly used shoulder styles: the Classic Shoulder, the Rope Shoulder, and the Spalla Camicia. We explain how they are constructed, what kind of look they create, and which styles or body types they suit best.
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This is a 3 roll 2 / three roll two jacket that we have just made that will be used as a show model in our studio at Bilderdijkstraat 179 in Amsterdam.
Sample jackets always help to inspire and visualize details. And this way you can do something useful with leftover materials.
Read moreNeapolitan style jackets
This is a double breasted jacket I tailored for myself to show some style options referred to as 'Italian'. And how to match patterns. Basically a Neapolitan style jacket with some personal style preferences. I like to use the classics but then add some personal spice to give my dress style a personal pinch.
Spalla Camicia shoulder style with shirring
A Spalla Camicia. A style option I love and hate😀 why? Regarding the creation of a clean shoulder line I prefer a more English cut. Regarding my Fuck You attitude I pose for the Spalla Camicia + shirring. SHIRRING, the small pleats, folds where the shoulder connects to the sleeve. When you have straight or athletic shoulders this style tends to raise up. All nice for a Pitti theater but you look like you have been hung on a washing line to dry before. Not very elegant. Spalla Camicia, says your sleeve has been put under-in the armhole instead of attached to it. Just like a dress shirt, it says shirt shoulder.
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