Baste Fitting: The core of a tailor made suit

Introduction

In a world where “tailor made” increasingly means: “we take your measurements and modify a standard pattern,” the baste fit has almost disappeared.

Too expensive. Too time-consuming. “No longer necessary with modern techniques.”

But for anyone who truly understands what bespoke tailoring means, the baste fit is not optional. It is the moment when a suit transforms from a collection of patterns and cloth into a garment built around your unique body.

In this article, I take you through my own baste fitting — not as an expert, but as a client with a challenging body: a stomach, uneven shoulders, and a specific arm rotation.
Amy, our tailor, explains what she sees, why she corrects, and how she makes my body perform at its best inside a suit.

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The Type of Shoulder on Your Suit Jacket: Rope Shoulder, Spalla Camicia and the Classic Style

The shoulder line of a suit or jacket is one of the most defining elements of its appearance and fit. A subtle difference in construction can make a jacket look structured and formal or relaxed and natural. That’s why choosing a shoulder style is essential for anyone investing in a bespoke suit.

In bespoke tailoring, everything revolves around the balance between comfort, style, and the desired look. The way a shoulder is constructed influences not only the appearance of a suit but also how it feels and how it accentuates the wearer’s body shape. In this article, we discuss three commonly used shoulder styles: the Classic Shoulder, the Rope Shoulder, and the Spalla Camicia. We explain how they are constructed, what kind of look they create, and which styles or body types they suit best.

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Challenges in Working with Checked Fabrics

Working with a checked fabric, such as a camel-colored worsted flannel with a check pattern, demands craftsmanship and extra attention from the tailor. Carefully aligning the checks across seams and transitions is essential for a harmonious and professional final result.

Precise Pattern Placement and Cutting

To ensure the checks align perfectly, the pattern pieces must be placed with extreme precision on the fabric. This often means laying the fabric out single-layered rather than folded, giving the tailor full control over the placement of the pattern on the cloth.

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