The Type of Shoulder on Your Suit Jacket: Rope Shoulder, Spalla Camicia and the Classic Style

The shoulder line of a suit or jacket is one of the most defining elements of its appearance and fit. A subtle difference in construction can make a jacket look structured and formal or relaxed and natural. That’s why choosing a shoulder style is essential for anyone investing in a bespoke suit.

In bespoke tailoring, everything revolves around the balance between comfort, style, and the desired look. The way a shoulder is constructed influences not only the appearance of a suit but also how it feels and how it accentuates the wearer’s body shape. In this article, we discuss three commonly used shoulder styles: the Classic Shoulder, the Rope Shoulder, and the Spalla Camicia. We explain how they are constructed, what kind of look they create, and which styles or body types they suit best.

Read more

The construction & make of your jackets: Full Canvas, Half Canvas, Unlined and more

The construction of a tailored suit is the hidden foundation that determines how your suit looks, how comfortable it feels, and how long it lasts. While the exterior – the fabric and the design – often receives the most attention, the true value of a tailored suit lies in its construction.

In this article, you’ll discover the differences between Full Canvas, Half Canvas, Unlined, and Fused constructions. We’ll delve deeper into the techniques, advantages, and limitations of each method, and how they shape the quality of your suit.

We’ll also guide you through the craftsmanship behind setting the canvas – the heart of a high-quality suit.

Read more

The Art of Pad Stitching: Giving Structure to Bespoke Jackets/ Blazers

In the world of bespoke tailoring, there are many techniques that set a custom-made garment apart from mass-produced clothing. One of these specialized methods is pad stitching — an essential hand-stitching technique that brings structure, shape, and character to tailored pieces. Although it often goes unnoticed once the garment is complete, pad stitching plays a critical role in the fit and feel of a well-made suit, jacket, or coat.

Read more