The Key
to Fit and Comfort
When it comes to custom or bespoke suits, the details truly make a difference. One of the most notable features that set custom suits apart from off-the-rack options is the armhole construction. A higher and smaller armhole is a hallmark of superior tailoring. But why is this the case?
In this post, we'll explore the reasons behind this design choice and how it enhances both the fit and comfort of custom-made suits.
Here you see a large armhole of 28 centimeters. This creates pleats and when you move, the whole jacket moves with you. The fabric at the shoulders and the back rises.
Here the armhole is 26 centimeters. This makes the fabric fall much nicer and crease less despite the weight of the fabric being lighter. It is also easier to move in. See the video.
"The true beauty of a custom suit lies in its precision—the details that go unnoticed but make all the difference in fit and comfort."
1. Improved Range of Motion
A higher armhole might sound restrictive, but it actually offers a better range of motion compared to lower armholes. By closely following the body's contours, a higher armhole allows the jacket to move with you. This means that whether you’re reaching for something or simply adjusting your posture, your jacket won’t feel tight or pull awkwardly at your shoulders.
In fact, many people find that once they’ve experienced the freedom of movement provided by a custom suit with higher armholes, off-the-rack suits feel much more restrictive by comparison.
2. Sleeker Silhouette
One of the defining characteristics of a well-tailored suit is a clean, streamlined silhouette. A higher armhole eliminates unnecessary fabric around the arms, reducing bagginess and sagging. This results in a sharp, fitted appearance, especially around the shoulder area.
With a higher armhole, the jacket naturally follows the contours of your torso and arms, giving you a polished, well-proportioned look.
3. Enhanced Comfort
Though it may seem counterintuitive, higher armholes are actually more comfortable in the long run. Lower armholes can create discomfort when you move your arms, causing the entire jacket to shift or bunch up. On the other hand, a higher armhole ensures the jacket stays in place and doesn’t lift unnecessarily when you raise your arms.
This tailored fit reduces unwanted pressure on your shoulders and torso, making the suit more comfortable to wear for extended periods.
A jacket being made, showing the armhole where the sleeve will be attached.
A comparison showing a finished jacket with a sleeve versus a jacket being constructed.
4. Precision Tailoring for a Personalized Fit
One of the key advantages of opting for a custom suit is the ability to have every detail made to your exact measurements. Off-the-rack suits often have lower armholes to accommodate a wide range of body types. Unfortunately, this compromises the fit for most individuals.
In contrast, custom-tailored suits are designed with your unique proportions in mind. The armhole is crafted specifically for your build, ensuring optimal comfort, range of motion, and fit. This level of personalization is what makes bespoke tailoring superior to mass-produced suits.
High Armholes, High-Quality Suits
The higher, smaller armhole is a signature feature of custom tailoring, offering a sleek silhouette, improved comfort, and enhanced mobility. It’s these kinds of design details that make a custom suit stand out—not just in terms of appearance but also in the way it feels and functions.
When investing in a custom suit, details like armhole placement can have a significant impact on the overall fit and wearability. So, the next time you're considering a bespoke or made-to-measure suit, pay close attention to this often-overlooked aspect of tailoring.
