Shoulder Styles
The type of shoulder style largely determines the look of your suit, jacket, and the impression it creates.
The shoulder construction of a jacket is therefore an important aspect to consider when you take your clothing seriously.
There are many ways to construct shoulders, but fundamentally, we can distinguish three types:
1. The Classic Shoulder
2. The Rope Shoulder
3. The Spalla Camicia
4. Video: See the different shoulder styles
The shoulder line of a suit or jacket is one of the most defining elements of its appearance and fit. A subtle difference in construction can make a jacket look structured and formal or relaxed and natural. That’s why choosing a shoulder style is essential for anyone investing in a bespoke suit.
In bespoke tailoring, everything revolves around the balance between comfort, style, and the desired look. The way a shoulder is constructed influences not only the appearance of a suit but also how it feels and how it accentuates the wearer’s body shape. In this article, we discuss three commonly used shoulder styles: the Classic Shoulder, the Rope Shoulder, and the Spalla Camicia. We explain how they are constructed, what kind of look they create, and which styles or body types they suit best.
A classic shoulder is recognized by the sleeve attaching at the same height as the shoulder. To achieve this, the sleeve is set directly against the armhole.
A suit with a classic shoulder has a timeless and balanced appearance. This type of shoulder is recognized by the sleeve attaching at the same height as the shoulder. The construction ensures a natural and structured fit, without excessive volume or sharp lines.
Characteristics:
The sleeve is set directly against the armhole.
A neutral and versatile look, suitable for both business and casual settings.
Supports the natural shoulder line without adding extra height or softness.
For whom? The classic shoulder is ideal for those seeking a balanced, universally flattering fit. This construction works well for both slender and broader shoulders and is suitable for formal and business attire.
The ‘Rope Shoulder’, also known as Con Rollino, is recognized by the sleeve head sitting higher than the shoulder itself.
The ‘Rope Shoulder,’ also known as Con Rollino, is instantly recognizable by the raised sleeve head. This effect is created by reinforcing the top of the sleeve head, giving it a rounded, structured appearance. This shoulder type is often associated with sharply tailored, structured suits and is popular in British and some Italian styles.
Characteristics:
The sleeve head is higher than the natural shoulder line, creating a sharper, more structured look.
Provides a powerful and formal appearance, often associated with business or formal settings.
Frequently found in suits with a strong silhouette and sharp lines.
For whom? The Rope Shoulder is suitable for those who want a powerful and structured look, such as in business settings or formalwear. It is less ideal for casual jackets or those preferring a naturally draping shoulder.
The Spalla Camicia is recognized by its small pleats, achieved by setting the sleeve beneath the armhole.
The Spalla Camicia is an Italian shoulder style characterized by a soft construction and distinctive pleats in the sleeve attachment. Unlike the other shoulder types, the sleeve is set under the armhole, creating a slight rippling effect. This gives the suit an informal and relaxed appearance while maintaining elegance.
Characteristics:
The sleeve is set under the armhole, resulting in visible pleats.
The shoulder has a soft, relaxed look without padding.
Very comfortable and flexible, allowing greater ease of movement.
For whom? The Spalla Camicia is perfect for those who appreciate Italian style and seek a casual yet elegant look. This shoulder type works well for lighter, summer suits and jackets with a relaxed fit.
In our video, we show how the three different shoulder styles look and how they are applied in bespoke tailoring.
Watch the video and find out which shoulder style best suits your style and body type.
Choosing the Right Shoulder Style for Your Bespoke Suit
A well-chosen shoulder style makes all the difference in appearance and comfort. The classic shoulder provides a timeless and versatile balance, the Rope Shoulder offers a structured and formal look, and the Spalla Camicia delivers a relaxed yet elegant fit.
At De Oost, we guide you in selecting the right construction, tailored to your style, body shape, and desired look. Want to experience how a bespoke suit with the perfect shoulder line feels? Book an appointment and explore the possibilities.
