Bespoke Dark Navy overcoat
made from a wool cashmere fabric from Italy for protection against cold and wind
For many men, an overcoat is the most visible garment during the autumn and winter months. It offers protection against cold and wind, but also speaks volumes about one’s personal style and appreciation for quality. This bespoke dark blue overcoat was designed for a client who values both functionality and elegance. Every element—from the fabric to the construction—was carefully chosen to create that balance.
Fabric: Dark Blue Wool-Cashmere, 590-610g
The fabric is sourced from Italy, from the Gentlemen’s Wardrobe collection by Fratelli Tallia di Delfino. Weighing between 590 and 610 grams per linear metre, the cloth is composed of 90% wool and 10% cashmere. This blend provides warmth, softness, and durability—ideal for a winter coat that must withstand colder temperatures without sacrificing comfort.
The deep, timeless navy hue allows the coat to pair easily with both formal and smart casual suits.
Design and Details
This overcoat features a three-button front with notch lapels, a classic and versatile choice. The straight flap pockets and ticket pocket on the right add a British touch without being overly formal. The collar can be worn up and fastened with a button, offering extra protection against wind and weather.
A distinctive feature is the cuff with four buttons in a row, all working buttonholes—a hallmark of true bespoke tailoring rarely seen in ready-to-wear. The coat is constructed with a full canvas, ensuring a natural drape and long-term durability.
Lining: 100% Cupro Satin by Holland & Sherry
The interior is finished with a lining from the Linings Collection by Holland & Sherry —a smooth Cupro Satin in a solid navy tone. Cupro, a cellulose-based fibre, offers the breathability of natural fibres with the refined appearance of silk, but with better resistance to wear. This choice enhances comfort while maintaining a clean and elegant finish inside the coat.
Functionality and Style
This coat was designed to be a versatile piece—equally at home over a suit or worn with knitwear. The combination of understated style, robust fabric, and classic details makes it well-suited for daily wear as well as more formal occasions.
For those looking for a winter coat that offers more than just protection against the cold, this design demonstrates what is possible within the world of bespoke tailoring.
Who is this coat for?
This bespoke overcoat is particularly well suited for men who dress professionally and are frequently on the move during the colder seasons—think of lawyers, consultants, or entrepreneurs who travel between appointments on a daily basis. It’s also ideal for those who regularly wear a suit and are looking for a coat that fits well over it without compromising on style or freedom of movement.
Why choose a bespoke overcoat?
Unlike off-the-rack coats, which are often too loose to sit properly over a suit or too tight across the shoulders, a bespoke overcoat is tailored precisely to your body and intended use. At De Oost, we take into account factors such as the thickness of the garments worn underneath, your preferred range of motion, and how the coat should fall—both when worn open and closed.
Fabrics for winter coats – what makes the difference?
A fabric weighing between 590 and 610 grams is heavy enough to provide protection from wind and cold, but not so heavy that the coat feels stiff. The addition of 10% cashmere makes the fabric softer and more luxurious, without sacrificing durability. Compared to 100% wool, it offers extra comfort for everyday use. For clients who require a heavier coat for extremely cold conditions, we also offer fabrics that weigh 700 grams or more.
A good overcoat begins with the right fabric. It determines not only warmth and comfort, but also how the coat drapes and looks. Below is an overview of the most commonly used luxurious fabrics for bespoke overcoats, along with their characteristics and visual impression
🐫 Camel Hair – The Classic Camel Coat
Camel hair is warm, lightweight, and comes in the characteristic natural shade known as “camel.” This fabric is prized for its softness, insulating properties, and casually elegant appearance.
Appearance: Elegant, warm, and relaxed
Ideal for: Informal or smart casual settings; clients looking for an alternative to navy or grey
Note: More prone to wear with daily use; often blended with wool for added durability
🧵 100% Cashmere
Cashmere is considered one of the most luxurious materials in the world. A coat made from 100% cashmere feels exceptionally soft, light, warm, and fluid.
Appearance: Discreet luxury, highly refined
Ideal for: Clients who prioritise comfort over ruggedness; formal occasions
Note: More delicate than wool, less suitable for heavy daily wear
🧶 Cashmere Doeskin
Doeskin is a type of twill weave with a slightly brushed surface, creating a soft, velvet-like finish. In cashmere, it becomes exceptionally elegant.
Appearance: Very soft, subtle sheen, classic with a gentle finish
Ideal for: Eveningwear, formal winter clothing, a representative coat over a suit
Note: Less suited to casual wear – more of a statement in softness and style
🦙 Vicuña
Vicuña is the most exclusive and rare fibre in the world, sourced from the vicuña of the Andes. Lighter, warmer, and softer than cashmere.
Appearance: Ultimate luxury, minimalist with maximum refinement
Ideal for: Collectors or clients seeking the absolute best – regardless of price
Note: Rare, extremely expensive, and highly delicate – this is haute couture territory
🐏 Wool
Wool remains the most versatile and durable choice for an overcoat. It comes in many variations in weight, texture, and weave. A wool between 600–700 grams is ideal for coats worn in colder climates.
Appearance: Depends on the finish – from classic and business-like to robust and rural
Ideal for: Daily use, travel, professional wear
Note: Coarser wool weaves feel stiffer but offer better protection against wind and rain
Popular Weaves and Patterns – and Their Visual Effect
The way a fabric is woven affects how the coat looks and feels. Below are several classic weaves and patterns commonly used in overcoats:
▸ Herringbone
A V-shaped weave that adds depth and texture.
Effect: Timeless, refined, subtly playful
Well suited for: Dark colours, winter fabrics, Donegal tweeds
▸ Houndstooth (Pied de Poule)
A pattern of jagged checks or abstract squares.
Effect: More striking, traditional with personality
Well suited for: Country-style or statement coats, often in black/white or brown tones
▸ Twill
Recognisable by its diagonal lines.
Effect: Smooth drape, structured, often with a subtle sheen
Well suited for: Business-appropriate overcoats, uniformed looks
▸ Plain weave
The most basic and tightly woven construction.
Effect: Clean, classic, smooth surface
Well suited for: Minimalist overcoats, sleek modern looks
▸ Melton
A dense, slightly felted wool fabric – often used in military overcoats.
Effect: Clean and structured, nearly windproof
Well suited for: Structured formal overcoats with military influences
🧥 Overview: Fabrics for Overcoats
| Material | Characteristics | Appearance | Ideal For | Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Camel Hair | Warm, lightweight, naturally camel-colored | Casual chic, soft | Informal or smart casual coats | Less durable than wool |
| 100% Cashmere | Extremely soft, lightweight, luxurious | Understated luxury, refined | Formal coats, clients prioritizing comfort | More delicate, less suited to rough daily wear |
| Cashmere Doeskin | Twill weave with a slightly brushed, velvety finish | Elegant, soft sheen | Eveningwear, formal business overcoats | More delicate, less casual |
| Vicuña | World’s finest and rarest fibre – incredibly light and soft | Ultimate luxury | Collectors, high-end clients seeking the very best | Extremely expensive and delicate |
| Wool (600–700g) | Durable, warm, versatile | Depends on weave and finish | Daily wear, business and travel | Can feel stiffer depending on treatment |
🧵 Overview: Weaves and Patterns for Overcoats
| Weave / Pattern | Characteristics | Visual Effect | Usage / Expression |
|---|---|---|---|
| Herringbone | V-shaped broken twill pattern | Texture, depth, subtle playfulness | Timeless, refined, classic elegance |
| Houndstooth | Broken check pattern, often in black/white or earth tones | Bold, traditional | Countrywear, statement overcoats |
| Twill | Diagonal rib pattern | Smooth, structured, subtle sheen | Business-appropriate coats |
| Plain Weave | Simple, tight over-under weave | Crisp, clean finish | Minimalist overcoats |
| Melton | Densely woven wool with felted finish | Firm, warm, wind-resistant | Military-inspired or formal coats |
Advice from De Oost
At De Oost, we advise each client individually on the fabric and weave that best suits their desired look, functionality, and longevity. Whether it’s a classic navy overcoat in twill wool or a camel coat made from 100% camel hair – each material tells its own story.
Looking for a timeless, warm overcoat made to measure? At De Oost, we are happy to advise you on fabric selection, fit, and design options—tailored to your preferences and lifestyle.
Frequently Asked Questions About Bespoke Overcoats
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The price depends on your choice of fabric and finishing. At De Oost, bespoke overcoats start at €999.
View our pricing here -
On average, the process takes between 4 and 6 weeks, depending on the complexity and number of fittings.
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Absolutely. When taking your measurements, we always take your clothing use into account, ensuring the coat fits comfortably over your suit without looking bulky.
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Item description
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An overcoat is generally heavier and longer, designed for colder temperatures, while a topcoat is lighter and shorter, suited for milder weather conditions.
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Wool is a popular choice due to its warmth and durability. Fabrics weighing between 600 and 700 grams are ideal for most temperate climates.
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Double-breasted overcoats are more formal and offer greater warmth, while single-breasted coats are more versatile and tend to have a more casual appearance.
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An overcoat should offer enough room to be worn comfortably over a suit without feeling too tight, especially around the shoulders and chest. It’s a balance between comfort with and without layers underneath.
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Navy and grey are versatile choices that pair well with most outfits and work for both formal and informal occasions.
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A trench coat is traditionally made from waterproof fabric such as gabardine, features a double-breasted front, epaulettes, and a belt, and is designed to protect against rain. An overcoat is usually made from heavier wool and provides warmth for colder temperatures.
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Yes, depending on its design and fabric, an overcoat can suit both formal and casual settings. Classic styles like the duffle coat or pea coat are especially versatile and appropriate for various occasions.
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Regular brushing, airing, and avoiding excessive cleaning will help preserve its quality. Always follow the care instructions provided by the manufacturer.
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A bespoke overcoat offers a perfect fit and can be tailored to your personal preferences, enhancing both comfort and style. For many, the durability and timeless look justify the investment.
