The Art of Pad Stitching: Giving Structure to Bespoke Jackets/ Blazers

In the world of bespoke tailoring, there are many techniques that set a custom-made garment apart from mass-produced clothing. One of these specialized methods is pad stitching — an essential hand-stitching technique that brings structure, shape, and character to tailored pieces. Although it often goes unnoticed once the garment is complete, pad stitching plays a critical role in the fit and feel of a well-made suit, jacket, or coat.

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Understanding Suit Fabric Super Numbers: What They Are and Why They Matter

What Are Super Numbers?

Super numbers refer to the fineness of the wool used in the fabric. The wool is measured in microns—its diameter determines the Super rating. A Super 100 fabric contains wool fibers with a diameter of about 18.5 microns, while a Super 150 fabric uses even finer fibers, around 16 microns. The higher the number, the finer the wool, and thus the softer and smoother the fabric feels.

Note: Super numbers don’t measure the weight of the fabric but the fineness of the wool fibers.

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Three Roll Two Vintage 20's 30's Flannel Three Piece Suit

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Three roll Two suits/jackets have a special place among fans of bespoke and sartorially made suits.

The nice thing about this type of assignment is that it also challenges us and gives us a lot of fun.

When making a retro suit, the traditional method of making, fabrics and the model all play a role that reinforce each other.

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