Unlined Suit: Woollen Spun Boucle Chalkstripe
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This bespoke 3-piece unlined suit, featuring a bouclé chalk stripe in woollen spun/carded wool with a flannel finish, stands as my personal favorite tailored suit crafted in the past decade.
A highly distinctive handmade tailored suit that amalgamates various construction techniques to create a robust yet smoothly wearable ensemble.
"Not just a supercar but a hypercar."
Bespoke Tailoring: A Paradox of Warmth and Light Wearability
This tailored suit is not merely an ensemble; it is an expression of my personality, style, and vision, brought to life through classical craftsmanship with a modern approach.
"3-star Michelin-star cooking but with fabric, that is Bespoke Tailoring."
The freedom to choose fabrics, models, details, and finishes creates a unique garment that speaks to who you are. Inspired by the style of Kenichi Shinoda of the Yakuza clan Yamaguchi-gumi, this suit is a masterpiece of craftsmanship and paradoxes.
The fabric from Holland & Sherry's Chequers collection (737306) is crafted using the Wool Spun technique, a super 100's wool in Mid Gray with a Chalk Boucle Stripe of 3/4 inch, weighing 340 grams. This extraordinary wool is made from 17-micron Saxon merino wool, signifying extremely fine fibers.
Resulting in unmatched softness and luxurious appearance, Wool Spun, where fibers are kept short before spinning, gives the fabric a voluminous look with its own character, remaining supple and durable.
The Jacket
The unlined/unstructured jacket, with its peak lapels, two low-placed buttons, and slanted pockets, is handcrafted with a hand-padded linen canvas in the lapels for structure and a rolling effect. The brown horn buttons add a subtle accent. Finished with handmade working buttonholes with 4 kissing buttons.
The lining showcases a classic Paisley pattern in heavy satin with a changeant effect, creating a beautifully iridescent overall look.
The unlined inside of the jacket makes it perfect for summer days, while the lining in the sleeves and on the seams attests to the artisanal approach of Italian tailors from Florence and Naples.
The Tailored Trousers with Fishtail
The custom-made trousers feature a fishtail, button closure, handmade bronze-colored metal side adjusters, and monk’s habit inside curtain. The orange-brown fabric is from an actual monk’s habit and demonstrates the attention to detail and personalization bespoke tailoring offers.
The Waistcoat (Gilet)
The waistcoat, with its continuous fabric on the back, is not just an easy-to-wear addition but also a versatile enhancement to your wardrobe. It can provide a dressed touch to a casual outfit or serve as a discreet accent under, for example, a dark blue 2-piece suit. Thus, the waistcoat becomes an understated eye-catcher capable of upgrading an entire look and outfit.
Weighing 340 grams (11 oz), it is often considered a favorite for suits and is popular among tailors for various reasons. Firstly, fabric of this weight offers a good balance between comfort and durability. It is heavy enough to give a structured and elegant appearance to the suit while being light enough for comfortable wear in different seasons.
A suit made of 340-gram fabric generally maintains its shape well and tends to show wrinkles less readily, contributing to the preservation of a sharp look.
The bouclé stripe is a textured pattern characterized by an irregular, bumpy structure. It is often associated with a woolen fabric where loops or loop-like knots are visible on the fabric's surface. This pattern originates from traditional weaving and textile techniques and is frequently linked to luxury and craftsmanship.