How to care for, clean and maintain your suit & shirt
You have invested in a beautiful garment, for which I thank you, and it deserves the best care. Here is a guide to ensure you know exactly how to keep your clothing looking as good as new. With proper maintenance, you can enjoy wearing your garments for much longer. A well-cared-for suit can outlast the gentleman or lady who purchased it. That is why proper maintenance is not only important for appearance but also for your wallet.
How to care for, clean and maintain your Suit & Jacket:
First the basics
Hanging
Brushing
Airing
Steaming
Dry Cleaning
Travelling
How to care for, clean and maintain your Shirt & Blouse:
Washing & Steaming
Ironing
How to Wash a Dress Shirt
Method 1: “Wash and Press” at the Cleaners
Method 2: Washing the Shirt at Home
Method 3: Dry Cleaning at the Cleaners
Frequently Asked Questions
No Washing
It is not possible to wash the garments tailored by De Oost. Not with a washing machine and not by hand. Dry cleaning is therefore the best option.No Bleaching
Your clothes can not be treated with bleach. The garment is not colorfast or structurally withstand use of such products.Ironing
Ironing, steaming and drying, at a temperature of 110 degrees Celsius.Dry cleaning
Each detergent can be used safely except Trichloroethylene.Cycling and exercise
Avoid intensive movements such as cycling in a suit. Constant friction, especially in women's suits, can cause the fabric to wear out faster.
In practice, this means that the suit should be hung up on a broad, well-shaped hanger after it has been worn. Ideally, the hanger should be broader at the ends to better fill the shoulders. Make sure you have emptied all your pockets before you hang up your jacket.
Hang your suit when you are not wearing it. As we have already noted, you should never use flimsy metal hangers and should take care, hang your suit in a space where it isn’t cramped up against other clothes. The right hanger will have a contoured shape that matches the shape and drape of your jacket, will be wide enough to touch each edge of the shoulders and will be made of a natural wood that helps absorb moisture from fabric. Cedar wood hangers also work as repellants for predators such as moths.
The suit hanger will also help smooth out any wrinkles that you end up with during the course of your day, whether its from driving or leaning up against a wall. If you do wear suits to work and take off your jacket during the day, I advise keeping a hanger at the office versus hanging it over the back of your chair as this could impact its shape as well.
Hangers are crucial when it comes to suiting. Your choice of hanger can help maintain the shape of your jacket and ultimately help it last longer. Just as with the suit brush, it is up to your pockets to determine how much you want to spend on one.
Before you hang your suit away it should be given a quick brush. Brushing your suit after every outing is the best way to ensure that it stays in top form. The fabric of a suit loses its integrity over time as dirt and unseen particles build up. A decent suit brush will help you prolong its life. This should be done with a clothes brush made of natural bristle, available from most good department stores. A suit brush looks much like your hair brush, with a wooden or plastic body/handle and bristles made from either synthetic material or real animal hair. Natural animal hair is your best bet, to ensure that the bristles are not so coarse that they damage your suit. Apply your shaving strategy and brush downwards only.
We advise against the use of sticky rolls that are designed to pick up fluff as these can leave behind traces of adhesive on the material, which can cause considerable damage. We've found it much easier to remove hairs and fluff with our fingertips. Go gently when you brush your suit. Although we do our best to ensure that your buttons are fastened securely, over exuberant brushing can cause premature wearing to the thread.
A suit should not disappear into the wardrobe immediately after it has been brushed. It is better to let it air for a while by an open window or in a bathroom.
Keep your suits in a place where they can breathe. Be aware that keeping a suit in an airtight bag for storage might seem like a good idea, but don’t be surprised to find mold or even moths eating at your favorite blazer. If you have got a suit bag, some recommend leaving the zip open a bit to let air in and out.
Moths are a real danger, and often times, once you’ve spotted them, it’s too late. Moths lay around one hundred eggs, and once they hatch, the little jerks are going to be hungry. Needless to say this is a virtual death sentence on a suit. Though some advocate mothballs as a prevention method, the smell is unpleasant, and they only work in a sealed enclosure, like a suit bag. Dried lavender leaves, sealed in pouches and kept in pockets, repel moths just as effectively without the same drawbacks. Barring this, cleaning your closet and vacuuming the space regularly will work wonders.
Steam clean your suit after wearing, but only if needed. This will clean it and remove wrinkles at the same time with the need for ironing. A good steamer isn’t cheap, but it’s a worthwhile investment. Steaming your suit is a delicate method of removing wrinkles and odours and won’t damage the fibres. Avoid using a regular iron to press your suits as the high temperature may cause damage. Also avoid steaming the chest area, which may disrupt the shape of the internal canvas.
Some suit enthusiasts also invest in a trouser press, a machine that gently and automatically presses suit pants. The trouser press is a time tested method of clothing care that’s stood up to fifty years of scrutiny and use.
Wool fibres need moisture to maintain their elasticity. Your clothes can be steamed easily in any bathroom – this is a great tip for those of you who travel. Close all the windows and air vents, run hot water until steam forms, and then hang up the suit for a while in the misty atmosphere you have created. This gets rid of most wrinkles and helps remove unpleasant odours.
We would prefer it if you kept dry cleaning to a bare minimum. The traditionalists on Savile Row say that it is quite unnecessary: brushing, airing and steaming are quite sufficient, while stains should be treated individually.You can also do a lot yourself, after a big night hang your suit outside and use a damp cloth to clean any spots. Others see no danger in dry cleaning. Our major concerns are associated with how a garment is ironed afterwards.
Anyone who has seen how a suit is treated at the dry cleaners around the corner will definitely stick to brushing and airing.
There’s a perception that if your suit gets dirty or wrinkled, you need to have it cleaned. It’s absolute nonsense. Dry-cleaning should only happen when your suit gets irrecoverably dirty, and some purists have their suits cleaned as little as once a season. The chemicals involved in dry cleaning can wear out the wool, and if your suit is just a bit wrinkly, and not dirty, they should simply be pressed rather than dry-cleaned. The suit will come back from the cleaners just as crisp, but without having been subjected to the same chemicals.
As for the rest, there’s nothing that says you need a dry cleaner. Small stains can be steamed out with a hand-steamer, or brushed out with a good, stiff suit brush. Base your dry cleaning habits on your suit’s fabric. Fabrics of higher micron numbers (higher than Super 150s wool) are richer and softer, but also finer and more fragile. Dry clean these as infrequently as possible.
When you receive your brand new De Oost bespoke tailored suit, it comes with a cloth bag. A cloth bag is the way to go, because it encourages greater air flow and allows your suit to breathe. A bag also protects against moths and wrinkles. Wait a dayor so after wearing your suit to put it into a bag, and make sure your closet is not packed so tightly that air can’t reach it.
A garment bag is a must if you are a serious traveller with a suit. Look for one that is easy to carry, light and breathable. If a garment bag is totally out of the question, learn how to properly fold and pack a suit in a way that minimises wrinkles and offers maximum protection.
When packing your suit for a business trip/travel (without the use of a garment bag) always turn the Jacket inside-out making sure to pull the shoulders all the way through. We've found that lining rubbing against lining causes far less creasing than wool against wool. Some fabrics like Mohair are wrinkle-proof and are therefore ideal for travelling.
De OOST Prefers to dryclean YOUR GARMENTS by ourselves, please Have a look at our pricelist.
Remove the collar stays before washing; turn the shirt inside out and rub soap onto the cuffs and collar. Wash at 40°C if your shirts are made of cotton. Once washed, shake them out immediately and hang them up to dry. It is best to avoid using a tumble dryer.
If you take your shirt to a professional laundry service and receive high-quality service, your shirt will be returned perfectly folded, sometimes with a decorative ribbon to keep it neatly in place. A well-cared-for shirt can then be placed directly on the wardrobe shelf or packed into a suitcase. Those who wash their shirts at home will need to practice folding them neatly—a skill that improves with time.
Check the care label for the recommended ironing temperature. In general, pure linen can withstand high heat, cotton requires slightly less heat, and wool, silk, and blended fabrics should not be ironed at high temperatures. Be cautious with synthetic fabrics and fiber blends.
Start with the collar. If it is difficult to get smooth, it is likely too dry—sprinkling it with water will help. This applies to the rest of the shirt as well. Iron from the collar points toward the center of the collar to prevent wrinkles. If the shirt has flap pockets or partially detachable epaulets, lay them flat under the iron, ensuring that no other parts of the shirt are beneath them.
Next, place the shoulder section on the pointed end of the ironing board, with the back of the shirt facing you, and iron it.
Lay the placket (the strip with buttonholes) flat in the center of the ironing board and iron over the buttonholes and around the buttons. Pay extra attention to the placket, as it is highly visible. For each section of the placket, also iron the adjacent front panel. Button the shirt (it’s fine to skip every other button, but always fasten the top button).
Now, lay a sleeve flat on the ironing board, ensuring that already ironed sections of the shirt do not get too wrinkled as they hang off the board. Iron the cuff while it is flat. If the shirt has double cuffs, also iron the backside, as it becomes part of the visible front when folded. If desired, press a crease into the sleeve for a sharper look.
Shirts are made to be worn, not worshiped. This means they get dirty. However, with proper care, a high quality dress shirt can last for several years and continue to look great. In this post, we’re going to break down three of the most popular washing methods and detail how you can keep your dress shirts looking great for years to come. We’ll also outline how to deal with special emergencies as well as provide some other cleaning tips.
“Wash and press” is the standard cleaning method used by most dry cleaners. (Don’t be misled by the name “dry-cleaners”—unless you specifically request dry cleaning, they are likely using the wash and press method.) This is our preferred option. With a cost of around $1.50 per shirt, it’s relatively inexpensive and keeps shirts looking crisp.
At most cleaners, the process involves:
Washing the shirt in a standard washing machine with water and detergent.
Removing excess water using a spin cycle.
Pulling the damp shirt onto an industrial press, which simultaneously irons and dries the fabric.
✅ Pros: Convenient and relatively affordable.
❌ Cons: Some cleaners may be too rough on shirts. The force of the press can crack or break buttons. If the shirt torso or sleeve is stretched tightly over the press during steaming, it may become misshapen. Additionally, collars often get flattened during transport, requiring extra ironing for a polished look.
If you don’t fully trust your dry cleaner or prefer to have more control over the washing process, you can wash your dress shirts at home. This is a great option but requires extra time and care. Follow these steps for the best results:
Prepare the shirt: Unbutton all buttons, including cuffs and collar buttons. Remove any collar stays and store them safely.
Treat stains: Apply a small amount of detergent or a stain remover pen to any stains before washing.
Set up the washing machine:
· Use the delicate cycle for lightweight or fine fabrics.· Use the normal cycle for heavier fabrics or very soiled shirts.
· White and light-colored shirts can be washed in warm water.
· Dark-colored shirts should be washed in cold water to prevent fading.
· Avoid washing shirts with bright-colored garments that may bleed.Use a high-quality detergent, such as Woolite Complete, appropriate for the shirt’s color. Avoid chlorine-based detergents, as they can cause discoloration.
Drying process:
· The spin cycle will remove most of the water.· Promptly remove the shirts from the machine to prevent deep wrinkles.
· Hang them on a hanger or lay them flat to air dry. Avoid sharp hangers or tight clothespins, as they can distort the fabric.Ironing: You don’t need to wait until the shirts are completely dry—ironing while they are slightly damp makes the process easier.
✅ Pros: Full control over the process, better stain treatment, and gentle care for buttons and collars.
❌ Cons: Time-consuming and requires attention to detail.
While we don’t generally recommend dry cleaning cotton dress shirts, some people still prefer this method. It prevents shrinkage and doesn’t damage the fabric, but it also has drawbacks.
🔹 Why isn’t dry cleaning ideal?
Expensive—usually over $5 per shirt.
Water-soluble stains like sweat may not be removed. Since dry cleaning solvents contain little to no water, sweat-based dirt may remain in the fabric.
Washing dress shirts in water is more effective at removing sweat and dirt.
However, oil-based stains (such as grease or makeup) are better treated with dry cleaning.
✅ Pros: Convenient, reduces wear and tear, removes oil-based stains.
❌ Cons: Does not effectively remove sweat or water-based stains, expensive, and dependent on the cleaner’s quality.
❓ Can I put dress shirts in the dryer?
We recommend air drying shirts on a hanger whenever possible. If using a dryer, select a low heat setting and remove the shirt while it’s still slightly damp. Then, iron immediately to remove any remaining moisture and wrinkles. Fully drying shirts in the dryer can make them harder to iron perfectly and cause excess shrinkage.
❓ How do I remove a stain from a white shirt?
If you accidentally spill wine or pasta sauce, act fast to minimize staining.
Remove excess debris with a brush or knife to prevent spreading.
Treat the stain immediately with water or a stain remover. The sooner, the better.
No stain remover available? Try a Tide Pen, dish soap, lemon juice, vinegar, or club soda.
Dab the stain gently rather than rubbing it in, as excessive pressure may push the stain deeper into the fabric.
Repeat as needed until the stain disappears.
❓ Should I use starch when ironing a dress shirt?
While some people like their shirts heavily starched, we strongly advise against it.
Starch may make broadcloth or oxford shirts look extra crisp, but it weakens the fibers over time.
The starch particles embed in the fabric and act like tiny knives that break down fibers, causing premature wear and tear.
Three Tips to Maximize a Dress Shirt’s Lifespan
🔹 Don’t let dirty white shirts sit in the laundry hamper for too long.
This can cause premature yellowing around the collar as sweat and body oils have more time to set into the fabric.
🔹 Always remove collar stays before washing and ironing.
If left in, they can warp and cause the collar points to bend awkwardly.
🔹 Don’t rely on your cleaner to find and remove stains.
If you know there’s a spot on your placket or sleeve, point it out to ensure proper treatment.