Morning Coat: The Classic Formal Garment for Daytime Wear
Index:
1. Morning Coat: The Classic Formal Garment for Daytime Wear
2. The History of the Morning Coat
· The Evolution of the Morning Coat Through the Ages
3. Features of the Morning Coat
· Regional Differences and Variations
4. Materials and Fabrics of the Morning Coat
5. Construction and Craftsmanship of the Morning Coat
6. Etiquette and Symbolism of the Morning Coat
· Accessories for a Morning Coat
7. Modern Interpretations of the Morning Coat
8. The Morning Coat vs. Other Formal Garments
9. How to Choose a Morning Coat
10. Conclusion
Morning coat, made from high-quality 370 gram wool from Bateman Ogden.
The morning coat is a traditional, formal garment that is primarily worn at very formal daytime events. It is an essential part of classic menswear and is often seen at occasions such as weddings, equestrian events (like Royal Ascot), and state ceremonies. This garment is known for its timeless elegance and is appreciated for its refined appearance. But where exactly does the morning coat come from, and why is it still a favorite among the elite?
The morning coat has its origins in the 19th century and evolved from the riding coat, which was worn by the upper class during outdoor activities such as hunting and horseback riding. Over time, this riding coat became longer and more refined, eventually developing into the formal garment we know today. In the Victorian era (mid-19th century), the morning coat became increasingly associated with formal daywear. Men wore it at state affairs, important events, and even some business meetings.
The morning coat is strongly connected to British nobility and aristocracy, where it quickly became the go-to garment for ceremonial daytime occasions. Its association with status and prestige has ensured its continued relevance, even in modern times.
The morning coat has adapted to changes in fashion over the centuries, yet it has maintained its formal status. In the early 20th century, it became less popular for everyday wear due to the rise of the modern three-piece suit, but it retained its place for special occasions.
Historical figures such as King Edward VII and other members of the British royal family regularly wore the morning coat, contributing to its enduring popularity. King Edward even introduced subtle changes, such as using lighter fabrics for summer events, a trend that designers still follow today.
What sets the morning coat apart from other formal menswear are several specific features that have remained largely unchanged over the years:
Long tails at the back: The morning coat features extended tails that elegantly trail behind the wearer, while the front remains short. This creates a striking balance between traditional and refined.
Single-breasted front: The front of the morning coat is single-breasted, usually with one button, although it is often worn open to display the shirt and tie.
Color and fabric: The traditional morning coat is black or gray and made from high-quality woolen fabrics like barathea or cheviot wool. The classic combination includes a black coat paired with gray striped trousers, although more modern variations exist today.
Striped trousers: The morning coat is worn with formal, gray striped trousers without cuffs. These trousers are not part of a three-piece suit and are separate from the coat itself.
Although the morning coat originated in Great Britain, it has seen different interpretations worldwide. In continental Europe, the morning coat was also worn by aristocracy, with small variations in cut and accessories depending on cultural preferences. French and Italian morning coats, for example, are often slightly more refined in construction, with a stronger emphasis on detail and silhouette.
The material from which a morning coat is made plays a significant role in its comfort and appearance. Traditionally, the morning coat is made from heavier wool fabrics such as barathea, cheviot wool, or superfine merino. These fabrics are durable, warm, and give the wearer a stately appearance.
However, modern designers have also begun experimenting with lighter materials such as linen or blended fabrics, especially for events in warmer climates. The use of seasonal fabrics is one way the morning coat has adapted to the needs of contemporary occasions.
The construction of a morning coat is a craft that requires a great deal of skill, especially when it comes to bespoke pieces. A bespoke morning coat is typically made with a full-canvas construction, meaning the coat is not reinforced with glue but with a full layer of canvas between the outer fabric and the lining. This allows for a better fit and natural movement, as the canvas molds to the body over time.
The cut of the morning coat is crucial, as it must fit the wearer perfectly. The size and fit can make subtle yet impactful differences in how elegant the garment looks. A handmade morning coat is usually preferred by formalwear enthusiasts, as the attention to detail and precision in the fit contribute to its overall appearance.
The morning coat is traditionally worn only during the day for very formal occasions. Etiquette is of great importance, especially at ceremonies or royal events. For instance, the morning coat should not be worn in the evening, as the full evening dress (white tie) is reserved for such occasions. Wearing the morning coat correctly, along with the appropriate accessories like a top hat and white gloves, enhances its symbolism of status and class.
In addition to the morning coat itself, there are several traditional accessories that complete the look:
• Waistcoat: The vest worn under the morning coat is typically gray or black. Sometimes a lighter color is used for summer events.
• Tie or cravat: A simple tie or cravat is worn, often in a neutral color such as silver or gray.
• Pocket square: A silk pocket square adds an extra touch of refinement to the ensemble.
• Top hat and gloves: Especially at ceremonial events, the morning coat is traditionally paired with a top hat and gray or white gloves.
In modern times, the morning coat is worn less frequently, but it remains a popular choice for formal weddings and royal events. Some designers have reinterpreted the morning coat by using modern fabrics or making subtle adjustments to the cut. For example, lighter colors, slimmer silhouettes, or innovations in construction give the garment a contemporary twist without losing its traditional roots.
The morning coat is often confused with other formal garments, such as the white tie or a tuxedo. The biggest difference is that the morning coat is worn exclusively during the day, while the white tie is reserved for evening events. The tuxedo is considered a slightly less formal alternative, usually worn at galas or evening parties.
For those considering wearing a morning coat, it is essential to invest in a good fit and high-quality fabrics. A bespoke morning coat is always the best choice, as it is tailored perfectly to the wearer’s body, resulting in a refined, classic appearance.
The morning coat is one of the most iconic pieces of formal menswear, rich in tradition and symbolism. It is a garment that exudes class and elegance and is worn at the most prestigious events. Although it is a classic, the morning coat continues to adapt to the demands of modern times, ensuring its relevance in the world of formal fashion.