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Elevating a suit jacket from a standard off-the-rack piece to a garment that exudes custom luxury can be accomplished with the addition of working buttonholes, often referred to as "surgeon's cuffs".

This feature allows the sleeves to be unbuttoned, much like a surgeon's coat, which not only adds a touch of elegance but also showcases the skill of a master tailor and good taste.

This customisation adds both functionality and a clear indicator of sartorial expertise, especially when applied to a premium Isaia Jacket constructed from opulent Dormeuil Guanashina fabric.

It is a simple but splendid way to elevate a garment from good to great.

The steps to make working buttonholes

1. Planning and Measurement

Identify the Location: Decide on the placement of the buttonholes (typically four), spaced about 2.5 to 3 cm apart, starting around 2.5 cm from the bottom of the sleeve. This precision ensures that the customisation integrates seamlessly with the jacket's elegant design.

Mark the Buttonholes: Use fabric chalk or a marker to accurately mark where the buttonholes will be positioned, ensuring they are perfectly aligned and evenly spaced for a harmonious appearance.

2. Preparing the Buttonholes

Reinforce the Area: Iron a small piece of interfacing on the wrong side of the sleeve at the marked locations to give the fabric additional strength, a step that is particularly crucial when working with high-end materials like Dormeuil Guanashina.

Cutting the Buttonholes: Employ a sharp pair of scissors or a buttonhole cutter to make precise slits for each buttonhole, executing with care to maintain the integrity of the fabric.

3. Sewing the Buttonholes

Hand Sewing: This meticulous process involves using a buttonhole stitch to encase each slit neatly, an approach that demands a steady hand and an eye for detail, reflecting the tailor's adept skill.

Machine Sewing: For those with access to a sewing machine equipped with a buttonhole feature, select the appropriate size and stitch for the fabric. Follow the machine’s guidance carefully to ensure each buttonhole is crafted to perfection.

4. Finishing Touches

Sewing the Buttons: Position the custom-made fabric-covered buttons on the opposite sleeve placket, aligning them with the buttonholes. Hand-sew each button securely, an emblem of the garment's bespoke nature.

Tips for Success

Practice Makes Perfect: Especially when working with luxurious fabrics, it’s prudent to practise on similar material scraps to perfect the technique.

Select the Right Tools: A sharp buttonhole cutter is indispensable for clean cuts, and a buttonhole foot can greatly enhance sewing accuracy.

Patience is Key: The creation of working buttonholes on such a refined garment cannot be hurried. Dedicate the necessary time to each step for impeccable results.