De Oost Bespoke Tailoring

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Custom-Tailored Suit Jacket: A Stripe Ahead in Fit, Quality, and Appearance

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Every custom-tailored suit jacket has a factor that you don't see but is the core of the entire outfit(?)


This factor is the story of the customer around whom the jacket is designed and built. So, it's not about the associations communicated by a brand, as with branded clothing, but truly about your own standards and values.

What we mean is that our clients have a reason (their story) for having a suit jacket tailor-made and choose to express this through their clothing style.

This can practically involve fit, quality, and appearance, but often there's a deeper meaning behind it. People want to evoke and radiate a feeling/association for themselves and/or others. Increasingly, clients don't want to pay for marketing but for the actual knowledge and skill that produces a unique, handcrafted, sustainable product that brings joy for years.

Other factors that influence the customer's story and thereby the choices for a custom suit jacket include the goal, the phase of life, cultural and social background, budget, clothing style, body shape and measurements, and the complete mindset. It's essentially an endless mix of ideas and wishes.

The beauty is that when you have clothing bespoke made, you can personalize every factor. And thus wear clothing that makes an impact as you intend.

Let's give an example of the story behind a custom suit jacket


This is a custom-made jacket for a regular customer who follows us on social media. He saw a Blazer Stripe suit that we just finished for another customer. A good example leads to follow; there's nothing wrong with such copycat behavior.

Story Behind This Custom Suit Jacket


He just found this to be a cool suit to have but wanted it to be even more pronounced. So, a very flat motivation of 'I find this beautiful and want this', and thus a great assignment for us.

This customer has had many outfits tailor-made, like a Black Watch Tartan Blazer / Cashmere Doeskin Overcoat / Double-Breasted Navy Blazer, and always pushes the boundaries in terms of style and fabric. As a top specialist in his field, traveling the world to advise key figures in governments on strategic and military matters, he gets away with it.

And, to put it bluntly, he just doesn't care and gets a kick out of wearing this kind of clothing and acting the Dandy. Kind of like Winston Wolf from Pulp Fiction, he solves problems.

Let's take a closer look at this custom suit jacket with Blazer Stripe

. Blazer Stripe Fabric
. Floating Canvas / Full canvas jacket
. The jacket's shoulder
. Buttonholes
. Lapels
. Pockets
. Fabric & Pattern
. Video

This is a custom suit jacket for the confident man who won't settle for mass-produced clothing without love, soul, or personality. This is what a leader of the pack wears.

Blazer Stripe Fabric


The most striking feature is, of course, the fabric. The Blazer Stripe fabric from Holland & Sherry in navy, red, and white makes a powerful statement. Made from super 120's worsted merino wool with 30% Teclana, this light fabric weighs only 230 grams / 7.5oz but retains durability and a beautiful drape.

The satin lining, subtly interwoven with both green and brown threads for a variable effect, offers refinement that perfectly complements the dandy's bold choices. A subtle nod to the military background, every aspect of this jacket tells a story.

Floating Canvas / Full Canvas Jacket


The jacket is entirely handmade with the highest level of craftsmanship, with a floating canvas of linen and horsehair (full canvas). This allows your lapels to roll nicely, the jacket is supple and shapes beautifully to the body. You can recognize this by folding the lapels, and then you see tiny hand stitches, a kind of bumps.

The Jacket's Shoulder


The shoulder with small pleats, known as Spalla Camicia, adds an Italian touch to the cut. A fine 'Italian' detail that falls into the category of Sprezzatura and helps evoke an appearance of high quality. One of those details that make a difference.

Buttonholes


The handmade, working buttonholes with 4 kissing buttons are an essential element of this custom-made creation. A typical feature of real artisanal custom clothing. Also known as a doctor's sleeve or surgeon's cuff.

Lapels


The extremely wide lapels (13 cm) add that extra dose of dandy flair.

Pockets


The patch pockets with wide piping and the matching breast pocket, a nod to the military history, underscore the unique look. Patch pockets were used to store rifle cartridges. They are sewn onto the jacket so you can easily put your hands in the pockets.

Fabric & Pattern


Aligned stripes
are a sign of a pattern tailored to the customer's body where aesthetics are more important than fabric saving. An aligned stripe pattern creates a visually calming effect and is associated with clothing made at the highest level.

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