Corduroy Dinner Jacket
The Commission
For a gentleman attending a wedding who wanted to appear appropriately dressed and full of confidence, we designed a unique dinner jacket. Traditional tuxedos and dinner jackets did not appeal to him, and he was looking for something special that he could continue to wear beyond the wedding.
Corduroy Dinner Jacket in Dark Navy Blue 8 wale cord.
Inspiration and Design
The inspiration came from a dinner jacket worn by actor Robert Downey Jr.—classic in cut but with an unconventional choice of material. Initially, we considered burgundy velvet or emerald green, but ultimately decided these colors would be too bold. The goal was a unique jacket that remains subtle: understated luxury.
Why Corduroy?
During a visit to our atelier, the decision was made to use corduroy. Corduroy, also known as ribbed velvet, is a fabric characterized by its ridges, referred to as cords or wales. Originally from Manchester, England, this fabric is woven with parallel ridges that are then cut to create the distinctive striped effect.
The corduroy we selected comes from the collection of Holland & Sherry, a renowned supplier of high-quality fabrics. This specific fabric, HS187404 Dark Navy 8 Wale Cord, weighs an impressive 700 grams, ensuring a beautifully draped and luxurious jacket.
Advantages of Corduroy:
Warmth and comfort, ideal for colder months
Durability due to its strong structure
Rich, deep colors enhanced by the wide ridges
What Is a Dinner Jacket?
A dinner jacket, also known as a smoking jacket, is formal evening wear for men. It is commonly worn at formal occasions such as weddings, galas, and dinners. The dinner jacket is distinguished by its elegant appearance and is traditionally paired with a black bow tie, a tuxedo shirt, and patent leather shoes.
The Choice of a Shawl Collar
The shawl collar, also known as a satin shawl lapel, features a soft, rounded shape that originates from classic eveningwear. This collar style exudes elegance and sophistication, making it a versatile choice for both slimmer and broader body types. The rounded shape softens the shoulders and creates a timeless silhouette.
Garment Details
Style: Classic dinner jacket
Collar: Shawl collar made from corduroy fabric
Closure: Two-button fastening
Details: Pockets finished with dark blue satin, satin-lined buttonholes for a subtle black-tie look
The Effect of a Shawl Collar
A shawl collar provides a soft, refined look and is particularly flattering for men with a strong jawline or broad shoulders, as it helps to soften the lines. This collar style is often seen in eveningwear, such as tuxedos and dinner jackets, due to its elegant and timeless appeal.
Why Choose a Corduroy Dinner Jacket?
A corduroy dinner jacket strikes the perfect balance between durability and elegance. The dark blue color makes it suitable for various occasions, while the subtle satin details ensure it retains a formal and sophisticated appearance.
This project embodies the essence of bespoke tailoring: classic craftsmanship blended with modern interpretations. The result is a unique garment that is both stylish and functional, perfectly reflecting the wearer’s personality and individuality.
See more of this dinner jacket below:
Corduroy for More Than Just Jackets
Corduroy fabric can, of course, be used for a variety of garments beyond dinner jackets. In the video, we take a deep dive into this chocolate brown corduroy, examining it from head to toe and sharing the story behind these choices.
Corduroy double-breasted waistcoat
Comprehensive FAQ: Everything You Need to Know About Dinner Jackets and Corduroy
About Dinner Jackets
What is a Dinner Jacket?
A dinner jacket is a formal jacket that is part of the black-tie dress code. Traditionally made in black or dark blue, it is typically worn with a white tuxedo shirt, a black bow tie, and tailored trousers without cuffs. Unlike a regular suit jacket, a dinner jacket often features luxurious details such as satin lapels and covered buttons.
What is the difference between a Dinner Jacket and a Tuxedo?
A tuxedo refers to the complete black-tie ensemble, including the jacket, trousers, shirt, and accessories. A dinner jacket, on the other hand, refers only to the jacket itself. In some cases, a dinner jacket may be made in a different color or fabric to create a more distinctive look.
What is the difference between a Dinner Jacket and a Dinner Suit?
A dinner suit is the British term for a complete black-tie outfit, including both the jacket and trousers. A dinner jacket refers only to the jacket, which can sometimes be paired with contrasting trousers for a less formal yet stylish look.
Which Lapels Are Best for a Dinner Jacket?
Dinner jackets typically feature one of the following lapel styles:
Shawl Collar: A smooth, flowing collar with no break point. This gives an elegant, streamlined appearance and is commonly associated with tuxedo jackets.
Peak Lapels: A more structured lapel that points upward, giving the jacket a stronger and more formal look.
Notch Lapels: Less common on dinner jackets, as they have a more business-like appearance.
When Should You Wear a Dinner Jacket?
Dinner jackets are traditionally worn at formal events, including:
Weddings with a black-tie dress code
Galas and formal dinners
Evening receptions and exclusive parties
Opera and theater visits
New Year’s Eve celebrations and special events
With a modern interpretation, such as a corduroy dinner jacket, this piece can also be styled casual-chic for a contemporary twist.
Can You Wear a Dinner Jacket Casually?
Yes, depending on the design and fabric choice. A velvet or corduroy dinner jacket can be paired with a turtleneck and chinos for a luxurious yet relaxed look.
Is a Dinner Jacket Always Black?
No, while black is the most traditional color, other options such as midnight blue, burgundy, bottle green, and even jacquard patterns are becoming increasingly popular. Corduroy and velvet offer a more playful and slightly less formal alternative.
What Trousers Should You Wear with a Dinner Jacket?
Classic Black-Tie Trousers: Black or midnight blue, without cuffs, featuring a satin stripe along the side.
Contrasting Wool or Velvet Trousers: For a semi-formal look with added texture and depth.
Chinos or Dark Jeans (for casual styling): Only if the jacket is made from a more relaxed fabric, such as corduroy.
About Corduroy Fabric
What Is Corduroy and Where Does It Come From?
Corduroy is a woven fabric characterized by parallel velvet ridges, also known as wales. The fabric has a long history, dating back to 18th-century France and England, where it was originally used for workwear due to its durability. Over time, it became popular in classic menswear for its unique texture and depth.
The name corduroy is sometimes believed to derive from the French term “corde du roi” (fabric of the king), though this is historically unproven.
How Is Corduroy Made?
Corduroy is woven with extra weft threads that are later cut to create the signature ridges. The process involves:
Weaving: The fabric is woven with additional loops.
Cutting: The loops are cut open to create the distinctive ridged effect.
Brushing: The fabric is brushed to achieve its signature soft texture.
What Do Wales in Corduroy Mean?
The number of wales per inch determines how thick or fine the ridges are:
Wide-wale corduroy (6-8 wales): Thick, prominent ridges—luxurious and robust.
Medium-wale corduroy (10-12 wales): The most versatile option, commonly used for trousers and jackets.
Fine-wale corduroy (14+ wales): Softer and more subtle, often used for shirts.
The 8-wale corduroy used in this dinner jacket is thicker, enhancing its rich color depth and luxurious texture.
Why Is Corduroy Ideal for a Dinner Jacket?
Deep color intensity: The ridges absorb light, creating a luxurious visual effect.
Robust yet elegant: The combination of structure and softness makes it suitable for both formal and casual occasions.
Great insulation: The thick fabric is perfect for winter events.
Durable and long-lasting: Especially in heavier weights like this 700 g/m fabric from Holland & Sherry.
How to Style a Corduroy Dinner Jacket?
Formal: With black tuxedo trousers, a white dress shirt, and a velvet or satin bow tie.
Semi-formal: With dark blue wool trousers and a fine-knit turtleneck.
Casual chic: With a chambray shirt and dark chinos.
How to Maintain Corduroy?
Brush with a garment brush to remove dust and lint.
Steam instead of washing to preserve the fabric structure.
Avoid high heat when ironing, as it can damage the ridges.
Does Corduroy Wear Out Quickly?
Corduroy is highly durable, but due to friction, the ridges can flatten over time, especially on trousers. However, for a jacket, this is much less of a concern.
Is Corduroy a Seasonal Fabric?
Because of its thickness, corduroy is more commonly worn in autumn and winter, but lighter variations can also be suitable for cool spring settings.
Can Corduroy Shrink?
Yes, when exposed to high temperatures. This is why professional cleaning is recommended to preserve its texture and fit.