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This is a 3 roll 2 / three roll two jacket that we have just made that will be used as a show model in our studio at Bilderdijkstraat 179 in Amsterdam.

Sample jackets always help to inspire and visualize details. And this way you can do something useful with leftover materials.

This jacket is handmade with an unlined construction and many details that are often associated with Made in Italy

The method is unlined, there are many variants of this and in this piece the sleeves are lined and the seams on the inside of the front and back panels are finished with the lining. This also ensures that they do not fray and the jacket remains beautiful for longer. The sleeve lining helps to make the jacket easy to put on.

For the shoulder we opted for a Spalla Camicia, so the sleeve is deployed like the sleeve of a shirt under the shoulder instead of against it.

The shoulder seam is made with a folded back seam. Just such an understated detail that is a point of recognition for people who appreciate sartorial handmade clothing.

This time we made the outside pockets curved, secretly stolen from our friend Luca Rubinacci, so to speak.

You also see pick stitching with a purple thread running over the lapel, panels, pockets and shoulder.

Hmmm, because the Mohair fabric is quite crisp, I think it is a bit too present, but even after 20 years in the business of making handmade suits, you continue to learn.

If you pay close attention, you will also see the 3 roll 2 style of the lapel. So an extra buttonhole that is not used, typical Napoli.

The fabric is a black Mohair from Holland & Sherry of 280 grams. Ideal for summer and wrinkle-free.

The inner pockets are made with a zipper so that you are protected against pickpockets while traveling.